Thursday, April 8, 2021

The #Midwessay: Kris Harrington, Getting Up That Hill


There's one story that I keep returning to, over and over, writing and rewriting, turning it and tilting it this way and that so I can examine it from every possible angle. It's this story of growing up in Vandalia, Ohio, the "Crossroads of America". 
     I’m always at those crossroads, figuratively and literally. I’ve been there all my life. Sometimes it consumes me. Sometimes it plagues me. I’m there physically, psychologically, emotionally. My history is there. It’s where I’m most comfortable. 
     The crossroads are where East meets West and North meets South. It’s where Route 40 crosses Route 25 and where I-70 crosses I-75. If I did dare to leave, which direction should I go? Which path should I choose? Or, is the ideal path to stay put? Should I continue to live at the Crossroads, facing every direction but moving in no direction at all? What good is a crossroad if you don’t choose a path?
     All of the Ohio essayists seem to share this strange sense of wanting to leave or, for those who did leave, wanting to return. What is it about this place that makes people want to escape but then, draws them back? Read this weeks' essays to find out.
     Ohioans: We'd love to have more essays in conversation with the #Midwessay. Email your take on the subject to Beeda.Speis@gmail.com and I'll get your words turned in to the Powers-That-Be. —Beeda Speis, Ohio Coordinator

 



Getting Up That Hill

Kris Harrington

*

 
Mid-February and we are iced in here in Youngstown, Ohio, where deindustrialization has chipped away at our city since the late 1970s. We pride ourselves on self-reliance and grit because we cannot count on anyone in charge to fix things for us. Voices are salty and course. Beer is cold and cheap. Hearts are shielded and big. Yesterday, a friend who lives at the top of a hill on the northside near the freeway told me the story of why he has hung onto a pair of hand-me-down golf cleats for the past couple of decades. Although he is not a golfer himself, he keeps the cleats by his front door, just in case. If a car gets stuck on the street hill outside his home, as is common in these Ohio winters, the cleats will keep him clawed into the road ice, and he can help give a push to get the driver back on their way home. That everything might be useful, that people should be useful, undergirds how we live here in this place where industry used to be, where those of us who are still here are managing to get by. With a little help, we can get up that hill.  



Wednesday, April 7, 2021

The #Midwessay: Morgan Riedl, Midwessay/Ohio

There's one story that I keep returning to, over and over, writing and rewriting, turning it and tilting it this way and that so I can examine it from every possible angle. It's this story of growing up in Vandalia, Ohio, the "Crossroads of America". 
     I’m always at those crossroads, figuratively and literally. I’ve been there all my life. Sometimes it consumes me. Sometimes it plagues me. I’m there physically, psychologically, emotionally. My history is there. It’s where I’m most comfortable. 
     The crossroads are where East meets West and North meets South. It’s where Route 40 crosses Route 25 and where I-70 crosses I-75. If I did dare to leave, which direction should I go? Which path should I choose? Or, is the ideal path to stay put? Should I continue to live at the Crossroads, facing every direction but moving in no direction at all? What good is a crossroad if you don’t choose a path?
     All of the Ohio essayists seem to share this strange sense of wanting to leave or, for those who did leave, wanting to return. What is it about this place that makes people want to escape but then, draws them back? Read this weeks' essays to find out.
     Ohioans: We'd love to have more essays in conversation with the #Midwessay. Email your take on the subject to Beeda.Speis@gmail.com and I'll get your words turned in to the Powers-That-Be. —Beeda Speis, Ohio Coordinator








Midwessay/Ohio

Morgan Riedl

*


Sometime during the year that unfolded after moving across the country with me and before leaving me in our new Ohio home alone, my now-ex laughed at the state being part of EST.
     “It’s not part of the East Coast. It’s not really east at all, so why is it even in the Eastern Time Zone?”
     I didn’t have an answer then, so I just laughed along at the incongruence despite feeling a little defensive of my home state. A Midwest Essay can chuckle while it goes to work.
     I grew up in Cincinnati, in the same small, suburban village my mother was raised in, where she and her parents still live today. But other than learning in middle school civics class that the state bird is the cardinal, the state tree is the buckeye (my stepfather would chime in here, “Go Bucks!”), and the state flag is the only one shaped in a “swallow-tailed burgee,” I didn’t think much about being an Ohioan. It was all I knew and all I was surrounded by, so like any aspect of an identity that is shared by most of a community, it became unconscious and unremarkable.
     In high school when a student transferred from California, we all envied his tan and “beach” blond hair, and the first question we asked was did he surf. He came from the western most margin of the contiguous 48, the land of Hollywood, and so, for a while anyway, he seemed exotic and spectacular. He sat at the popular table in the cafeteria and was voted onto the Prom court, and I wonder how much of his Californian identity won him that. How much his not being from Ohio, which was just so normal—in more honest words, boring—was admired by the rest of us. I also wonder now if he experienced any sort of culture shock on his arrival, in tandem with our awe of it. After all, it was a small town. The whole high school matriculated fewer than 500 students. We were mostly white—you could count the number of students of color on one hand. We were mostly straight—there was only one guy who lunchroom whispers guessed might be gay and even that was just rumor until he came out in college, there were certainly no out lesbians, and no one knew the term bisexual.
     While reading the work of mostly dead white men in English class, we learned that Mark Twain said, "When the end of the world comes, I want to be in Cincinnati because it's always 20 years behind the times." While there is no evidence that Twain actually said those words, we believed them about our hometown and ourselves.
     So back then, I was eager to get out of here, only staying through college for the in-state tuition. I attended Miami University, often referred to as Miami of Ohio, though students like to say, “Miami was a university before Florida was a state.” The name comes from the Myaamiaki people, so I no longer feel it’s my place to defend the university beating Florida to the punch to use the name. Still, that knee-jerk reaction to go on the defensive is something I associate with Ohio. No one expects you to be proud of the state or being an Ohioan; it’s so often dismissed (like in Twain’s supposed words) that the Midwest Essay may find itself using space to defend its place in time.
     Even though finances dictated my choice to stay, Ohio has several notable universities, and I loved my time at Miami (again, my inclination to defend). Still, Ohio struggles with Brain Drain: students take advantage of the great educational opportunities, and then move away. Many go West. My sister went to Denver and there she frequented a bar dedicated to the Cincinnati Bengals. Even if Ohioans are leaving Ohio, they aren’t leaving it behind.
     I moved out West too, very much looking to leave Ohio behind, and began a different sort of education. I learned about the world while teaching in the high desert of New Mexico on the Navajo Nation and then I learned a lot about myself when I enrolled in a graduate program in the foothills Colorado. My mentor called it a Feminist awakening. I call it a becoming.
     It’s true I’d needed to leave Ohio to become, or at least understand, who I was, but just leaving Ohio or the Midwest wouldn’t have ever been enough. And, I learned later, it was never really about leaving the state; I had to leave myself, the self who was raised here, contained here. Then, I was far enough from the familiar to discover and explore parts of myself I’d squirreled away, like the part that was queer. Transformation is at the heart of the Midwest Essay.
     After nearly a decade gone, I returned to Ohio for more school. And on the summer drive back into the state, I stared out the window, remarking over and over again on all the green. Even at its most verdant, the West never looked like this. Ohio felt exotic rather than familiar, the way I’d imagined a homecoming to feel.
     That initial excitement was short-lived because almost as soon as we crossed the border into the state my girlfriend hated it, which made me worry that being back was a sort of regression, like the joke about Cincinnati. I recalled my antipathy for the state as a teenager and suddenly was experiencing it again. The location felt as stifling as the off-the-charts humidity. Daily, I calculated how much longer I would have to be here—how much longer I could make it last. A year later I had my answer. She was gone, and I was still here.
     I am still here.
     I won’t be here indefinitely, but I’m no longer counting down the days until I can move away. And when I do, I won’t leave Ohio or the part of myself that is Ohioan behind.
     That summer alone I relished the emerald hills. Spent afternoons reading in pastures while horses grazed around me. The trees crowding out the sky, no longer felt suffocating, but like they were cradling me instead. I took in the beauty of state parks like Stroud’s Run and Old Man’s Cave and learned about Ohio’s tremendous ecosystem diversity. I discovered and explored parts of Ohio I hadn’t known existed. It seems I’d needed to leave the state, and later be left in the state, in order to find the parts of Ohio I hadn’t been ready to appreciate before.
     And I met someone who found so much to love in Ohio, including me. But this isn’t about losing or finding a person. It’s about losing what holds us back and finding what moves us forward.
     Exactly how Ohio ended up on EST isn’t clear. When time zones were introduced in 1883 to coordinate interstate train travel, there were only 4, and Ohio wasn’t part of the Eastern zone (nor were many other states that seem more obviously “east” such as Georgia and Florida—again, my predisposition to defend). When the Interstate Commerce Commission took over zone management from the railroads in 1938, the border of the Eastern zone was pushed westward. Someone decided Ohio belonged in the East; I don’t know how they defended their decision. And Twain’s words about Cincinnati being decades behind the times were said (if he ever said them) before time changed in Ohio.
     I no longer believe those words anyway. Growing up, home was a place I was excited to leave. As an adult, Ohio is a place I am excited to be. Like the Midwest Essay, it’s remarkable (am I defending again?). And queer. It’s a place of transition. Of comings and goings. Where you can find a bit of everything that makes up this country in the land and people. Where time moves, not slower, but differently. Spectacularly. 



Tuesday, April 6, 2021

The #Midwessay: Brandon North, Unbelonging in the Midwest

There's one story that I keep returning to, over and over, writing and rewriting, turning it and tilting it this way and that so I can examine it from every possible angle. It's this story of growing up in Vandalia, Ohio, the "Crossroads of America". 
     I’m always at those crossroads, figuratively and literally. I’ve been there all my life. Sometimes it consumes me. Sometimes it plagues me. I’m there physically, psychologically, emotionally. My history is there. It’s where I’m most comfortable. 
     The crossroads are where East meets West and North meets South. It’s where Route 40 crosses Route 25 and where I-70 crosses I-75. If I did dare to leave, which direction should I go? Which path should I choose? Or, is the ideal path to stay put? Should I continue to live at the Crossroads, facing every direction but moving in no direction at all? What good is a crossroad if you don’t choose a path?
     All of the Ohio essayists seem to share this strange sense of wanting to leave or, for those who did leave, wanting to return. What is it about this place that makes people want to escape but then, draws them back? Read this weeks' essays to find out.
     Ohioans: We'd love to have more essays in conversation with the #Midwessay. Email your take on the subject to Beeda.Speis@gmail.com and I'll get your words turned in to the Powers-That-Be. —Beeda Speis, Ohio Coordinator







Unbelonging in the Midwest

Brandon North

*

 
Upon childhood crossings over the Ohio River after visiting family in southeastern Kentucky, I often noticed the sign that said my home state was "the heart of it all.” The heartland of the USA. The second free state admitted to the union created by the original thirteen colonies. Today, Ohio is, for me, a place people escape to or from—but not a place to truly belong, even if you come here to settle down, or were born there, as I was. Ohio is, after all, home to the first people to fly an airplane and walk on the moon.
      A large part of my Dad's family came to the Dayton area in the 50s and 60s as part of the “Hillbilly Highway” migration of Appalachians to Ohio, looking for industrial work instead of mining jobs. My Papaw worked in Montgomery County's waste management facilities and eventually my Dad did too, for thirty years of his life. And yet my Dad has never felt he's belonged in Ohio. Or at least that's my impression. Now in his seventies, he often speaks of his childhood in a holler in Kentucky, drinking milk fresh from a cow, riding a donkey up the mountain with ice cream melting just right for Independence Day, and hunting squirrels to eat as often as possible. And despite not being in good health, he gets his hunting license each year. I imagine him stepping through woods in southern Ohio while his footfalls land yet in the hills of Kentucky.
     When I've traveled through chunks of the Midwest, including on a few long, meandering bus trips, I very often had this feeling I'd escaped from somewhere, no matter the city I went to or through, whether it was Chicago or Vermilion, South Dakota. I wasn't a traveler—I was more like a refugee. I hadn't belonged. But maybe native Midwesterners are born refugees. Arguably, our unifying culture is that we are all inextricably connected by history to largely white families fleeing, rejecting, or being unsuited to life in the coastal states—the places that reminded them they never belonged in the land to begin with. But we end up refugees even today because Midwest settlers on the whole still ended up displacing and bringing on the genocide of indigenous peoples, leaving us in places established and functioning only because natives were made to not belong in their homes.
      Midwesterners, it seems then, are almost always fleeing the awareness that we can't wholly escape our lack of rightful belonging in the lands we occupy, no matter how much we go through the rituals of hard work and self-sufficiency. No matter if some of our ancestors from Europe were truly refugees, fleeing religious oppression, famine, or worse. Maybe this all sounds like a common American experience, but then, various media have often presented Midwesterners as the default Americans in the past. The Midwest became less a place than a mindset—a mindset where you easily forget important historical realities, starting with the fact that America needs you to forget those realities to keep its empire selling out stocks of often very enthralling masks.
     Several times as a kid my Dad took my family to Cherokee, North Carolina, a tourist town near an area of land called the Qualla Boundary. This is where you can find living descendants of The Eastern Band of Cherokee, who bought some of their stolen land back from the government after giving up tribal rights and becoming US citizens. These people were allowed to stay in their native land after the Indian Removal Act forced most Cherokee on a death march to Oklahoma. To learn about native peoples, my Dad had us go to several outdoor dramas, one of which, Unto These Hills, was shown in the town of Cherokee and depicted events that led to that death march, later known as the Trail of Tears.
      Though he commented on the actors, live weapons, and costumes more than the story after seeing the play, I like to think my Dad recognized, in his deepest mind, how the Eastern Band of Cherokee were made refugees in their own homeland. How the conditions of settler-colonialism did this to native peoples. As someone with Scots-Irish ancestors who came to Appalachia for a better, less tyrannized life, to a place with low lying mountains and hills that surely reminded them of home, I want to believe he did see this. I want my Dad to have understood how furthering civilization itself has a way of seizing everyone's sense of belonging.
      My ancestry.com results say I am at least 1% Native American. My Mom and Dad both say they have great (or was one great-great?) grandmothers with Cherokee heritage. I suspect this is somewhat common for older generations of white people from southern Appalachia. But I don't seek any sort of recognition through this at most very distant relationship. I don’t belong to any current Cherokee people except through the invasive powers of modern science and technology, which often serve to atomize us, to make us feel a heightened sense of unbelonging, despite claims otherwise. Though as a younger man my Dad once crafted his own headdress for reasons he never explained, I will adorn nothing that lets me hide my unbelonging history, even if it is just for a few moments, for just the time it takes for a polaroid that later might, in my most childish hopes, prove to myself and family I—we—could be part of a homeland our bodies have never touched, heard, inhaled, witnessed.
     I have been avoiding the question of what the Midwest essay is. And that seems just as it should be. I am a refugee of any domain that defines things too quickly, too tidily, and too casually. I distrust the arguments that resolve into less responsibility for my own actions. I reckon I'm a Midwesterner.






Monday, April 5, 2021

The #Midwessay: Ashley Bethard, The Cycle of History (and What We Leave Out)

There's one story that I keep returning to, over and over, writing and rewriting, turning it and tilting it this way and that so I can examine it from every possible angle. It's this story of growing up in Vandalia, Ohio, the "Crossroads of America". 
     I’m always at those crossroads, figuratively and literally. I’ve been there all my life. Sometimes it consumes me. Sometimes it plagues me. I’m there physically, psychologically, emotionally. My history is there. It’s where I’m most comfortable. 
     The crossroads are where East meets West and North meets South. It’s where Route 40 crosses Route 25 and where I-70 crosses I-75. If I did dare to leave, which direction should I go? Which path should I choose? Or, is the ideal path to stay put? Should I continue to live at the Crossroads, facing every direction but moving in no direction at all? What good is a crossroad if you don’t choose a path?
     All of the Ohio essayists seem to share this strange sense of wanting to leave or, for those who did leave, wanting to return. What is it about this place that makes people want to escape but then, draws them back? Read this weeks' essays to find out.
     Ohioans: We'd love to have more essays in conversation with the #Midwessay. Email your take on the subject to Beeda.Speis@gmail.com and I'll get your words turned in to the Powers-That-Be. —Beeda Speis, Ohio Coordinator








The Cycle of History (and What We Leave Out)

Ashley Bethard

*




The idea that Ohio’s memory is long is an illusion. The Midwest carries the same truncated histories as everywhere else. But the illusion is strong here, reinforced by its repeating cycles: work the land, plant the seed, tend the crop, harvest the bounty. And after the work, the descent into a grey decay, the deep freeze, the cold stillness that eventually gives away to a blessed thaw: green shoots poking through snow, spikes of last year’s cornstalks worn smooth and colorless.
     If you live in Ohio, your life is defined by cycles, even if you’re unaware of it. There’s no way around that. Ohio’s agriculture industry, which largely depends on Ohio’s weather, climate, and ability to experience all four seasons in a day, represent $124 billion of the state’s economic output, ranking it alongside manufacturing and healthcare. I didn’t know the name for a gravity wagon until I was an adult, but intuitively, I knew what its purpose was when it appeared in the fields next to our house. Just like the urge to leave when it becomes too much – too cold, too grey, too barren, too boring – it also draws us back in, those green shoots enticing us, encouraging a connection to the land as sustenance, the land as joy.
     But the land is challenging, too. It comes with its own rules, rules which vary greatly from the north of the state to the southern tip, and across its wide, swath of a middle. If you are a farmer, or even if you are vaguely familiar with what it takes to work the land, you know a thing or two about soil: the many different types, which regions have hard clay deposits, where the loamiest layers are, which soils are most conducive to growing Ohio corn and soybeans.
     To grow something is a paradox: knowing and loving the land, while at the same time wrestling it into submission. A study in contradiction: the hedge row that lines the farmer’s planted field. One unruly, brambles springing forth from the earth. A gnarled mess of vine and branch. The other tamed, treated, coaxed into giving a very specific kind of life. Rows reminiscent of raked sand in a Zen garden, sprouts lined up neat, fenced in by geometry. A history to excavate, and one to repeat. That seems like an essay to me.





Sunday, April 4, 2021

The #Midwessay: Deanne Stillman, Ohio Girl: How I Traveled the N.Y.–L.A. Fault Line and Got Home

There's one story that I keep returning to, over and over, writing and rewriting, turning it and tilting it this way and that so I can examine it from every possible angle. It's this story of growing up in Vandalia, Ohio, the "Crossroads of America". 
     I’m always at those crossroads, figuratively and literally. I’ve been there all my life. Sometimes it consumes me. Sometimes it plagues me. I’m there physically, psychologically, emotionally. My history is there. It’s where I’m most comfortable. 
     The crossroads are where East meets West and North meets South. It’s where Route 40 crosses Route 25 and where I-70 crosses I-75. If I did dare to leave, which direction should I go? Which path should I choose? Or, is the ideal path to stay put? Should I continue to live at the Crossroads, facing every direction but moving in no direction at all? What good is a crossroad if you don’t choose a path?
     All of the Ohio essayists seem to share this strange sense of wanting to leave or, for those who did leave, wanting to return. What is it about this place that makes people want to escape but then, draws them back? Read this weeks' essays to find out.
     Ohioans: We'd love to have more essays in conversation with the #Midwessay. Email your take on the subject to Beeda.Speis@gmail.com and I'll get your words turned in to the Powers-That-Be. —Beeda Speis, Ohio Coordinator








Ohio Girl: How I Traveled the N.Y.–L.A. Fault Line and Got Home 

Deanne Stillman

*


I always had the sense that I was American but never more so than when I moved from New York to California more than 20 years ago.
     Actually, that’s not true.
     Once, for one week during the 1980s, I felt American in a way that took me beyond the stirrings of parades and seventh inning stretches and the singing of the national anthem. It happened when I performed jury duty on a murder trial and was sequestered in a shabby midtown motel reserved for hung juries and foreigners exploring New York on $15 a day. Suddenly, I was thrown in with citizens from all walks of life exchanging thoughts about what is perhaps the most important issue on which human beings can exchange thoughts—the fate of another. It was exciting to see people taking to the task seriously, in spite of the jury flasher who lived across the street, directly opposite the floor that juries were empaneled on. And it made me realize that, although it is viewed (by the upper and middle classes) as the domain of the stupid and the jobless, it is an institution that brings out the best in people who are happy, if not a bit awed, to find out that, finally, they are being asked for an opinion.
     Some time later I moved to Los Angeles, which sits at the edge of the Mojave Desert. Although I grew up in Ohio, which is more or less in New York’s sphere of influence (to the degree that Ohio can be said to be orbiting around anything), I have always felt a yearning for the other coast, torn between two lovers (though for a long time have cheated on both with New Mexico and Arizona). On the one hand, there was always New York, the place that says, Do I look like I’m off duty to you, pal?… I don’t see your name on the list … Why are you wearing pastels? On the other, there was always California, the place that is just there, doesn’t particularly care if you are, but when you arrive, lies on its back and says, Hello, may I help you? I guess you could say that New York, fueled by an Old World of rules and restraint (fuck you) is more classically male, and L.A., informed by a desert and sea of space, is more classically female (fuck me). Is it any wonder that, in spite of the smog, it is L.A.—the land of the night-blooming jasmine—that actually smells better?
     As a little girl growing up in Ohio, I fantasized about both places. I wanted to go to New York and live in a hotel and be a writer. I wanted to hail cabs and be on all the lists. I wanted to meet the guy who skis down Fifth Avenue every winter when it snows and the city looks like a winter wonderland. This fantasy was perhaps a result of the fact that my father, a lawyer, had really wanted to be a writer. But I also wanted to go out West and join the rodeo. I wanted to leap up on an Indian pony and gallop across the red-rock mesas, leaving a swirl of magic dust. I wanted to wear skirts made of deer skin and moccasins with beads. This fantasy was perhaps a result of the fact that my mother was an equestrienne par excellence. As a girl it didn’t occur to me that these fantasies were perhaps at odds with each other, each actually embracing different styles of behavior, not even that if I lived in one place, possibly I would not be able to engage in a particular activity requiring—in my fantasy at least—the scenery of the other.
     And then something happened that later determined my first choice of geographic bedmate.
     The world which nurtured my fantasies ended one morning in third grade. I was sitting in the kitchen in our big house with the winding mahogany staircase. I was eating a bowl of Grape-Nuts before school (my father’s favorite cereal, mine too). There was a phone call. It was my best friend, who lived across the street. She was upset because I hadn’t told her we were moving. “What are you talking about?” I asked. She told me there was a “For Sale” sign on our front lawn. I rushed out to look. There it was, in front of my favorite dogwood tree, not unlike one of my stamps commemorating a cataclysmic moment in history. My mother explained that moving had something to do with my father being away so much, but a few weeks later, she attached the word “divorce” to the situation, and I suddenly realized why the television actors on Divorce Court were always sobbing.
     A family uprooted by a surprise air raid, my mother, sister and I moved from a world where even the children grazed on filet mignon and cherries jubilee to the side of town where everyone was powered by tuna casserole, a foreign country where we were greeted with suspicion as immigrants always are. This was a neighborhood where the only people who were divorced were divorced women from other neighborhoods; the church in this district of tool-and-die workers didn’t permit it.
     At the time, I had no idea that there were other children whose hearts had broken along with their homes. Pain was solitary, not a burden to discuss with your friends or proclaim in public. My first knowledge that families could have serious problems had come from Divorce Court, perhaps the most melodramatic show ever brought to the airwaves. Why were these people always crying? Couldn’t they just kiss and make up? Nobody had the answers because nobody who lived outside of a TV set talked about divorce. While many Americans were rocking around the clock and politely steering clear of the other guy’s blue suede shoes, others were locked in a private two-step, the unseemly dance of divorce, which was generally performed with the venetian blinds closed.
     My mother, sister and I settled into our new neighborhood, but the only people I recognized discussing divorce were stand-up comedians on TV. The jokes generally portrayed women as the bad guy, and many of them introduced me to a strange, new epithet for my mother: “divorcée.” As I recall, the term “divorcée,” nowadays heard only on the channel that regularly features Barbara Stanwyck, came to mean “hussy” at worst, and “cocktail waitress” at best; although my mother was neither, she was one of the few single mothers in the neighborhood, so why else did my girlfriends tell me that they weren’t allowed to play at my house because there wasn’t enough supervision? Was my mother out with men? Maybe, but so what? So taboo a subject was divorce, in fact, that despite my regular viewing of “Divorce Court,” I didn’t really understand what it meant when my mother told me, a little girl with a big vocabulary, that my parents had entered that unholy state.
     At first, when I was invited to the unbroken home of my new schoolmates for a meal, I was scared. How could they eat, I wondered, while a figure nailed to a cross dripped plastic blood above the Kraft salad dressing on the dinner table? Yet it had become my mission to spend time with them, no matter how haunted their houses, for they all had fathers.
     In 1981, I wrote a book called Getting Back at Dad. It was a collection of my own writing, with an introductory piece of that same title, subtitled, “Or Why I Write.” The introduction was an angry essay chronicling all the details of my parents’ divorce and the sudden disappearance of my father. I talked about the joy of fleeing Ohio and the excitement of finding kindred spirits at college; it wasn’t just me with a gripe against a parent—the whole country was mad at Dad. “The Dad in the classroom was teaching Dad’s warped version of history,” I wrote, “and the Dad at home played golf with all of the other Dads.” I discussed how I had carried my childhood rage into my professional life, and how I had made a living by being funny for money (the writing of “Getting Back at Dad,” my parodies, satires and commentaries had been paying my rent). And I wrote about how prior to my parents’ divorce, my father and I had been co-conspirators in literary flight.
     Our world was one that had nothing to do with the routine of family life and everything to do with escape. Instead of polishing the waffle iron, for instance, my father and I would flee a household of chores and head for his study, a safehouse where he would open old volumes of prose and poetry. Often he read aloud from his favorite authors—Hemingway, Steinbeck, O’Hara. I remember thinking how fantastic it would be to live in a city where “Butterfield 8” was a telephone exchange, as opposed to ours, where everyone’s had something to do with fruit. In fact, when I moved back to New York after my junior and senior years of college at the University of New Mexico (the first two had been at NYU), I was disappointed to find that “Butterfield 8” was no longer in use and re-read the book to see it in action. I had recently begun to contact magazine editors for assignments, and I was struck by O’Hara’s joke about a hack selling a piece on houseboat life in Manhattan. Sometime later, I picked up a local magazine and there it was!—“Houseboat Life in Manhattan,” an article that appeared every six months, often along with another standby, “What to Eat on Jury Duty” (not by me, remember; I like jury duty for the American-ness of it, although the dim sum at Hong Lee’s is pretty darn good). Then one day, I too got the call from an editor, but declined this tired assignment, saved by “Butterfield 8.”
     One of the works my father most liked to recite was Edgar Allan Poe’s “Eldorado,” the sad poem about a wandering knight’s search for the land of gold. Together, my father and I traveled the path of the perpetually questing knight, and I remember the sense that Eldorado was a land far beyond the borders known to either of us, an enchanted place to be found somewhere in the books from which my father loved to read aloud, perhaps in the reading itself. Later, when I was old enough to understand jokes, my father began to introduce me to his most treasured friends—anyone who could make him laugh. As I recall, Dad’s crowded shelves were well-populated by various wiseacres through the ages. While learning childhood classics from my mother (Charlotte’s Web, Eloise, Winnie the Pooh), my father taught me how to sound out the texts of Ring Lardner and James Thurber. I still remember him trying to explain the title of Max Shulman’s book, Rally Round the Flag, Boys. I must have spent one week of my life asking, Who are the flag boys?, unable to grasp the function of a comma.
     Soon, when I began to write (in complete sentences, with large block letters), my father and I would escape to our world and create fictional characters who gleefully rejected the day’s prevailing wisdom, a front united in the battle against mediocrity and rules. I remember coming home from school one day and complaining about a teacher who couldn’t spell. I had evidently committed a bit of mischief when I had raised my hand to let her know that “mischievious” was not a word but “mischievous” was. She didn’t call on me for the rest of the day. My father thought this was funny and exclaimed, “What a great character!” thus causing me to elevate her from the merely ill-informed to the mythological.
     I knew I had an audience of at least one, so I began to invent other characters, cloaking them in parody and submitting them to Mad Magazine under the name “Dean” Stillman, for I had noticed that the only people who got bylines in Mad were boys. My mail during those elementary school years was a strange mix of birthday cards, postcards from sightseeing relatives and form letters bearing the comment, “Not right for us.”
     But something else about me must have been wrong, I believed, otherwise why would my father have left? Fortunately, my father had shown me how to flee the tedium of the real world. Now it was time to escape its pain. I found solace among the fictional wanderers along the path to Eldorado, the only world that remained. I started reading tales of the West, stories about all of the great frontier characters—Crazy Horse, Jesse James, Calamity Jane—and I started to compose short stories in which “seldom was heard a discouraging word.” In one of them, my parents reunited; I called it “They Got Divorced at the End of a Decade,” and it was inspired by the apocalyptic tone of the James Jones title, “Some Came Running” (which, to this day, I still have not read). I tried to arrange a reunion one Christmas when I persuaded my parents to exchange presents. Neither wanted to and both of them hated the presents. I moved on to a less painful approach (for me)—humor, the Swiss Army knife my father had given me, which I knew could be used for all appropriate literary occasions: whittling, carving, slicing, filleting, filing, opening a can. I remember turning my parents’ failed holiday reunion into a tale called “Security Council,” about a battling couple who air their problems before an emergency session at the U.N., a place I knew of because, in college, my mother had worked there. I submitted it to Reader’s Digest, either not realizing that they only published condensed books, or being presumptuous enough to think they could make an exception in my case.
     When I was more adept at wielding my Swiss Army knife, I began to make a living as a writer. I wrote pieces that I would not be able to write now, including “The Feminish Dictionary” (which satirized the influence of political correctness on the language as it relates to gender); “Dean Martin Roasts Alexander Solzhenitsyn” (at least 10 years before glasnost—now a quaint and forgotten term—and several years before Yakov Smirnov, who fortunately, thanks to the collapse of the Soviet Union, appears only in Branson, Missouri; I wrote this sketch about the elevation of a Soviet dissident to an American icon); “The Monologue of the First Vietnamese Stand-Up Comedian” (written 10 years before the lifting of the embargo against Vietnam, this was a fantasy about the assimilation of the South Vietnamese into American society); and “The Last Survey” (before the ubiquitousness of polls, I wrote this poll about what happens when everyone is wired for their opinions). I say I would not have been able to write these pieces now—nor would I even think of them—because they were driven by a certain kind of rage.
     At the peak of this phase in my writing life, I found a publisher for my angry essay about my parents’ divorce and the pieces that went with it. But when I turned it in, my publisher had a change of heart; their lawyers advised them that the introduction invaded my father’s privacy and they did not want to go ahead with “Getting Back at Dad.” I explained that, mainly, the introduction invaded my privacy; it was a piece about me, not anybody else, and naturally, my father happened to be part of my life, along with others, such as Peaches, our erstwhile gardener, and my friend who had delivered the newsflash about the “For Sale” sign. Their fear of a lawsuit quickly subsided, although I later realized that this may have been because they knew they were going out of business about two hours after my book was to be published. At any rate, “Getting Back at Dad,” my message in a bottle, was cast into the sea and, to my surprise, floated ashore to a house I hadn’t visited in years—my father’s.

What happened was this: I was not sued. But to my surprise, several months after publication of my book, my father called, announced that he was in town and—just as surely as the pope stands up in his car—asked me to meet him for a drink. To my relief, we confined our conversation to updates about family members; I wasn’t prepared to retry my case during happy hour at the Tiki Room. After the second or third round, my father asked me to stay at his house instead of the hotel I generally inhabited whenever I was visiting Cleveland. He also warned me that other household members were still upset about “Getting Back at Dad” (for some, it was the first time they had heard about the things I had written about), and a visit might be fraught with tension. I pointed out that various relatives had recently “joked” about sequels, either fearing or hoping that the “getting back at” shelf would soon expand with more stories. My father and I both marveled at their presumptuousness, trying to imagine a book called “Getting Back at Aunt Edna,” yet knowing that this would never happen, and not just because I don’t have an aunt named Edna.
     Eventually, I took my father up on his invitation and spent a few days with him and his family. One afternoon, when I was out, the phone rang and my stepmother answered. It was the owner of a local bookstore who was a fan of my work. My stepmother asked the caller to leave a message. “Oh, is this Mrs. Stillman?” the caller wondered, not knowing that she was speaking to my father’s second wife, the mother of two of his other children. The answer, of course, was yes; the caller was speaking to Mrs. Stillman. “Well, tell Deanne that her book about her father is quite popular around here. It really seems to have gotten to people.” My stepmother replied that the book was not as popular chez that particular Stillman residence as it may have been at others, and later related the phone call to my father as we watched a football game on TV. He was not overjoyed and his feelings were mixed. I felt a pang of hurt knowing that my father was embarrassed, and then we both sat back in an uneasy and intense silence, as the Browns took on the 49ers. During a timeout, Dad turned to me and winked, in the peculiar sign language of those born before Pearl Harbor Day. A couple of days later, as our reunion was winding to a close, he confided that he had one editorial comment about the book. “You should have put the introduction at the end,” he said, “because the other stuff is so funny that it’s hard to laugh after you read about us.”
     If life were a television show, this would surely have been the “golden moment”—or “golden shower” as we called it on a TV series on which I was later employed as a staff writer, that brief interlude when relatives hug/kiss/phone home and have otherwise heartwarming experiences. But since life is something else (exactly what I cannot say), it wasn’t until years later that I fully experienced the impact of this particular moment.
     It happened in Los Angeles and had to do with the desert, the place that tells you it’s all right not to react—in fact, if you do react, you’re not going to be able to survive because you’ll use up all of your water way before the next cloudburst. On assignment for a local newsweekly, I attended a two-day meditation at the Airport Hyatt Hotel, led by a woman known euphemistically in New Age circles as the “Shaman of Beverly Hills.” But who was she really? Threat or menace? as the old joke goes. It didn’t matter to me. I had been flayed that week—the heave-ho from my beau of 10 years, and likewise from a television job that would have bought either a beach house or an iron lung, depending on whether or not I had decided to live for the moment or plan for the future. Here I was, back in the past, standing at square one with a gig that paid a nickel a word with a newspaper whose ads came from escort services and high colonics. So I decided to do something that life in New York would have completely precluded: I decided to take this shaman at face value—at worst, I’d come away with a magazine article and a free weekend at the Airport Hyatt with a complimentary Cobb salad and garment bags. The first day of the weekend journey was not productive for me; unlike the others who had meditated and found their power animal, I was unable to find mine and was disappointed, as I love animals. But on the second day, everything changed.
     Once again, the lights were dimmed, incense was lit and the low drone of aboriginal music began to pulse through the room. Again came the instruction: I want you all to lie on your backs, breathe deeply in and out, that’s right, in and out, really get comfortable, and then we’ll begin. After a few moments, we were told to visualize a port of entry into the earth, crawl in and follow the path to a primeval setting. I knew from my years of wandering the deserts of the Southwest that this is a traditional visualization, used by native cultures here and around the globe, not just those in Beverly Hills. My port of entry was a familiar spot in Joshua Tree National Park, which I had been exploring for years prior to this weekend. Now, said the shaman, find something you need from someone who has it … At some point you will come to an altar and that’s where it will be … something you need from someone who has it. Lulled by the keening of the ecstatic Navajo voice, I proceeded on my journey with great dispatch—to a port of entry leading to my own secret world, down into the earth until I found my barely perceptible desert path, marked by a flourish of ocotillo and creosote and signaled by the prolonged cry of a raven. A tortoise crossed my path as I wandered along the trail under the sharp light of the afternoon sun, a pocket of time in the desert when what you see is exactly what you get, but won’t be when the raven cries again. As the roadrunners and jackrabbits and butterflies moved as if frozen in the heat, a tranquilized tableau of zoology, I continued on at a fairly deliberate pace, through a grove of ancient fan palms and up a rocky path to a higher elevation capped by a giant Joshua tree in full bloom. It must have been a hundred feet tall. Could this be the altar? I wondered, and looked around for clues.
     There was no such information—no mantelpiece, no burning candles, no statues of tortured martyrs. Suddenly from behind the branches of this grotesquely beautiful tree appeared my maternal grandmother. Although she had died long ago, clutching a letter that I had mailed from the desert in New Mexico, my grandmother lived on in the family’s memory with her oft-uttered observance that, “Life is funny. Oh dear, oh dear,” kind of a metaphysical bumper sticker that explains everything from who really wrote Shakespeare to Billy Martin’s mysterious death in a drunk-driving accident. Many times have I dreamt of my grandmother over the years (and occasionally Billy Martin), yet as far as I know, have never actually left this realm for a visit. Perhaps the distant hum of departing 747s had fueled my spiritual wanderlust, perhaps the Shaman of Beverly Hills had guided me to some sort of cross-dimensional reunion, perhaps it was because my personal applecart had been upset recently and I knew I could no longer pretend that everything was fine, perhaps it was because I had skipped lunch that day, perhaps it was all of these factors and more; whatever was operating, there I was, under a Joshua tree in the desert, about to receive something I needed from someone I knew. I was ready.
     The sun glinted off a small vial of what I took to be water that my grandmother held in her hand. She stepped toward me, offering the vial. I took it. My grandmother was instantly reclaimed by the desert. As she vanished behind the tree, I knew then that it was not a vial of water, but of tears, my tears, tears I had not been able to shed since I was a little girl, had not shed during that wrenching moment with my father that had transpired years later. These were the tears of a lifetime’s worth of pain, tears I had withheld because I was fine, I could handle anything, since my parents’ divorce. I could bear pain no more, so I didn’t, at least not as far as the world was concerned. My grandmother, always quick to spot a half-truth, knew the whole story. And so my tears had been stored for me in the land of little rain, as the writer Mary Austin had called it, the land that writhes silently in pain, silently in ecstasy, and now it was time for me to have them. Sometimes life isn’t so funny, oh dear, oh dear.
     Since that weekend at the Airport Hyatt, I have returned to the desert many times, in my dreams and in my car. Prior to that moment, I had made a life and a career out of reacting. It made perfect sense that I happened to be in New York. Since then, I have come to feel at home in the one place where having a reaction is beside the point, the place that is the ultimate laugh track, the place where the silence is louder than the flap of a butterfly’s wing in the springtime—the place where I had been living all along. To many people, this parched and quiet cipher of a scape looks like the land of the dead. To me, it’s the only part of America that’s alive.
     Speaking of which, I feel particularly American in Los Angeles. I’m not sure exactly why. Maybe it has something to do with the endless stretches of space, or maybe it’s just easier to find 7-Elevens, the only other place besides jury duty where true democracy exists. Whatever the reasons, it is out here that I finally came to terms with my two lovers. Once upon a time, I loved New York, the place that allowed me to express my rage, to tell the have-a-nice-day-smile-face to take a long walk off a short bridge. But it is Los Angeles—and through it, the West—that has allowed me to feel the wounds beneath, to not be embarrassed to actually have a nice day. And it is being from Ohio that helped me put together the sophisticate and the naïf, the city slicker and the easy touch, the male and the female, in the living anthropological figure I call Ohio Girl.




Saturday, April 3, 2021

The #Midwessay: Dev Murphy, There is Something Sinister about the Land I Love, or How to Write About Ohio

There's one story that I keep returning to, over and over, writing and rewriting, turning it and tilting it this way and that so I can examine it from every possible angle. It's this story of growing up in Vandalia, Ohio, the "Crossroads of America". 
     I’m always at those crossroads, figuratively and literally. I’ve been there all my life. Sometimes it consumes me. Sometimes it plagues me. I’m there physically, psychologically, emotionally. My history is there. It’s where I’m most comfortable. 
     The crossroads are where East meets West and North meets South. It’s where Route 40 crosses Route 25 and where I-70 crosses I-75. If I did dare to leave, which direction should I go? Which path should I choose? Or, is the ideal path to stay put? Should I continue to live at the Crossroads, facing every direction but moving in no direction at all? What good is a crossroad if you don’t choose a path?
     All of the Ohio essayists seem to share this strange sense of wanting to leave or, for those who did leave, wanting to return. What is it about this place that makes people want to escape but then, draws them back? Read this weeks' essays to find out.
     Ohioans: We'd love to have more essays in conversation with the #Midwessay. Email your take on the subject to Beeda.Speis@gmail.com and I'll get your words turned in to the Powers-That-Be. —Beeda Speis, Ohio Coordinator





The #Midwessay: Dev Murphy, There is Something Sinister about the Land I Love, or How to Write About Ohio

Dev Murphy

*

 
Four major crops: corn, soybean, astronaut, president. People who aren’t from Ohio say, “What is it about your state that makes people want to leave the planet?” I think of northeast Ohio as quiet but loud, by which I mean not whispering loudly, but shouting with a pillow over your face. Expect my lower middle-class parents’ rural acre with my father’s MAGA signs out front, by my mother’s lilac bushes. It is the lip of the lip of the Midwest and it is average land: flat but not too; corn and soybean, unextraordinary staples; swing state; occasional tornadoes, not too devastating, but don’t expect safety. Expect waking up to a boom in the middle of the night because the neighbors’ house blew up when a propane pipe leaked. Viral memes suggest Ohio—inconspicuous and vaguely heart-shaped, but seething—will take over the world. One astronaut looks at the Earth and says, “It’s all Ohio?” Another astronaut points a gun at the back of his head and says, “Always has been.” The truth is there’s no fleeing this rural ache. People passing through know Hell Is Real and Grandpa’s Cheesebarn. If you haven’t been to Grandpa’s Cheesebarn, you’re missing out. I could make a joke about Ohio being Hell, but I won’t, because it isn’t. The neighbors’ family rebuilt the house of the dead as a lighthouse in the middle of the field. But what I think of when I think of Ohio is low ceilings and an angry person who wants more attention than they’re getting. I thought I was talking about my father but maybe I mean me. Ohio isn’t hell, but there is something sinister about the land I love. // How to turn all this into an essay? I say How to turn as if I am looking for a way when what I am really looking for is How to describe how I turn, because before now I had written no essays that could be blurbed as being “about Ohio,” and yet they are all about Ohio, this land of swelling sadness passed by and through. When I am writing in another state everything is written through the lens of what it is not, which is Ohio. I write about the church and I am writing about Ohio; I write about Pittsburgh and I am not writing about Pittsburgh, I am writing about not Ohio. “My new apartment has such high ceilings,” I say, and my Pittsburgh-born partner responds: “These ceilings are a standard height.” Everything I pen and everything I feel is through the lens of this perfectly ordinary Midwest pain, perfectly passive and passive-aggressive white women with fathers and husbands and brothers and sons who rage in easy chairs while wind moves lace curtains. It’s the love of cornfields and cloudy skies, the love of porches and family reunions. It’s waking up in the dark from dreams of death and hellfire. It’s be grateful for what you’ve got, it’s family is everything. It’s mourning a society you’ve outgrown but can’t forget, can’t lose hope for—am losing hope for. It’s all love and loss, it’s all low ceilings. It’s all Ohio, always has been. 




Thursday, April 1, 2021

The #Midwessay: Kevin Finley, The Unmatched Beauty of the Place Called Home







The Unmatched Beauty of the Place Called Home

Kevin Finley


*

 
As kids, my lifelong friends and I would peddle past rows of modest two-story homes as we made our way to the river. Coloring Saint Paul’s flat as a pancake landscape and these houses' lack of distinct characteristics and architecture that would make someone look twice and wonder what does that person do for a living are elm trees whose vase shaped trunks lead to canopies of gorgeous green leaves.
     Brick by brick, these houses are designed with Midwestern roots, consisting of hot dish dinners and working- and middle-class families needing to turn two-bedroom homes into three so transform musty basements and ancient attics into bedrooms.
     Taking our two wheels toward the bluffs blanketing downtown, we’d bike under the shaded sections of streets the towering trees created to get a break from the humid heat. Traveling down Summit Avenue where the city’s money resides, we’d reach Ramsey Hill and take the street’s steep descend as fast as possible to feel a rush our mundane lives didn’t provide. 
     Navigating downtown’s crooked streets and taking one-ways the wrong way, we’d arrive at the river’s edge. Summer days were spent dipping toes in the Mississippi’s rust-colored water and being mesmerized by the fact we’d never see the same wrinkle of water again. The sight of block-long barges departing atop swirling swells and limb-breaking current introduced a question, I’d find answers to in adulthood, is there meaning in movement?
     Just because the flat terrain doesn’t offer picturesque views of sprawling mountains, an ocean traveling further than the eye can see and there isn’t a bustling big city vibe, this doesn’t mean being banal translates to bleak outlooks on life. Nicknamed Saint Small, the small-town vibe, slower pace and beloved murky Mississippi are the elements people cherish and proudly displayed their affection on tee-shirts proclaiming keep Saint Paul boring.
     City blocks are paved with memories consisting of maximizing the months winter isn’t covering every crevasse and emitting a gray complexion far longer than anyone cares to remember. Our positive perspectives erase feeling frozen for half the year by using the four corners of streets as bases for games of stickball that last until it’s too dark to see the ball. Afternoons are spent cooling off at Highland pool or the cheap seat theater, which had something most of our families couldn’t afford, air conditioning. Being a teenager where first kisses happen in the backseat of beat-up cars and many more occur at keg parties on various shorelines along the river. Partaking in Grand avenue’s twentysomething bar scene and bombing establishments with faces as familiar as the sound of our mother’s voice. Individuals who make those moments memorable and serve as the reason why Saint Paul isn’t a place people leave for long.
      For people like me who do and figure out there’s absolutely meaning in movement. Like a child who’s loved, those lifelong unbreakable bonds pulled at my heartstrings and brought me back to the unmatched beauty of the place called home.